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A quick 3-night / 2-walk visit to Gondwana warm temperate rainforest, on the escarpment, at 1250-1550m, organised by Linda's sister, Georgie and Margaret. We stayed at Tom's Cabin (centre of the second map), and walked to both Point Lookout (top-left) and Wright's Lookout (top-right). It rained much of the time, and misted all of it. Which are perfect conditions for the location.
The Park is west of Coffs Harbour via Bellingen, Dorrigo and Ebor |
The Lyrebird Walk is on the outer side of the escarpment, mostly beneath the cliffs |
Mossy trees, outside the cabin we'd hired |
And a closer view |
Wet sclerophyll forest ... |
... just above the escarpment |
Lush trunk moss |
Even the small plants form a forest |
A standing giant |
A fallen giant |
Moss and track |
Moss and roots |
Rocks and friends |
Lichens in abundance |
Many ferns, Coral Fern the prettiest |
With a Juncus species |
One of several waterfalls along that section of the escarpment |
A 'view' from above the lip |
Ebor Falls, north of the Park, on the way home |
The view out Georgie and Margie's front window at Mylestom |
Two days of short walks at the top of the Alps – the Rams Heads and Blue Lake / Hedley Tarn – preparing for Linda's walks for Aust Native Plants Society walks in Summer 2017-18
I've also included preparatory notes for a huge walk that we haven't done, Hannells Spur Walk.
From the top of the Thredbo chairlift, 600m N along Thredbo-Kosciusko track, 200m W on the Dead Horse Gap track, then NW up the waterline. Then to the E of Rams Head North, NW, then E over the ridge, and diagonally down to Kosciusko Lookout.
The 1:25000 map |
A 1:50000 commercial map |
The Ramshead, above the Chairlift |
|
Up the herbfields beneath the range |
Alpine heathland |
Along the range |
Admiring rocks and vegetation |
Plenty of weathered rock features |
And of variations in vegetation |
Another Ramshead |
On the exposed feldmark, 50kph winds, looking S to Vic |
Looking across to Kosciusko, 100m above us |
A photogenic peak in the Ramshead range |
Dropping back down to the Koscisuko track |
Looping back, above Thredbo valley, beneath threatening skies |
From Charlotte's Pass, W along the Main Range Track steeply down to the Snowy River crossing, NW 4km until the Blue Lake Walk, then down to Blue Lake. Then S and SW using an unofficial track to Hedley Tarn, lunch, then off-track SW across Carruthers Creek, SSE diagonally up the ridge, then SW to rejoin the Main Range Track c.1km above the river.
The 1:25000 map |
A 1:50000 commercial map |
WildWalks' map |
|
Below Charlotte's Pass; Clark, Townsend, Carruthers, Blue Lake Peak |
The Snowy River, moderate summer level |
Mt Carruthers |
Hedley Tarn, looking E from the Main Ridge Path |
Blue Lake, best moraine lake in Oz west end ... |
.. centre ... |
... east end ... |
... and flowers |
Blue Lake Ck, just below the lake |
Further down, towards Hedley Tarn |
The very photogenic Tarn ... |
... again ... |
... and again ... |
... and from the lunch-spot |
At Carruthers Ck |
And looking up it |
Looking up a waterline to the ridge to the W |
And the pool at the photographer's feet |
Looking N from the ridge, Twynam above the Lake, Hedley just visible on right |
Looking E from the ridge, over the Snowy, Mt Guthrie high right |
This is the highest vertical path on mainland Australia, from Geehi Bridge +1800m / 14km up to Kosciusko, -300m / 6km to the top of the Thredbo chair-lift, and a further -600m / 5 or 10km to Thredbo Village. Allow 12 hours.
The problem is that the first 2/3rds up to join the Main Range Track isn't marked, and half of that is dense undergrowth.
To add to the mystique, it's the track Strzlecki took when he became the first whitie to reach the summit in 1840.
Some reports suggest he did up and back in a day – which is dubious. Others mention a camp-site up high, possibly with a late-night return on the second day.
It's definitely only for seasoned and organised walkers, and requires a very long day or a night on the mountain. Don't forget that it's a serious mountain-range that makes its own weather, and full warm-and-dry kit is essential.
And you need to car-pool at Geehi and Thredbo, or spend a night in Thredbo and thumb a ride back to the car.
Start at Geehi Bridge, which is along Alpine Way beyond Dead Horse Gap. Angle up the spur, then the Main Ridge Track to Koszi, then the Thredbo Track to the top of the lift |
The 1:25,000 segment for the first 4km to the Spur |
The 1:25,000 segment for the unmarked steep part |
A 1:50,000 of the first half |
A 1:50,000 of the much-travelled second half. The Thredbo lift closes too early, so it's 10km down the Dead Horse Gap Track or 5km down the ski-slopes |
Roger was (modestly) crook for 6 weeks until shortly before we left Australia, and Linda also for 2 weeks. So we arrived without the same degree of preparation for walking that we've had in previous years. (This was a particular problem for Roger, because each year he has to gear up from a low base). That's the primary excuse for us starting with mere 550m-700m walks, and only getting back to 1000m walks for the last 2 of 12 (although increasing age might not be completely irrelevant – the total of 120km and just under 7km vertical looks a bit puny compared with the 185km and 12km vertical that we did in the 2016 epic.
Last year, after flying from Canberra to Zürich and driving south past Chamonix into the French Alps, we walked from our Chambres d'Hotes up about 250m, to shake away the jet-lag cobwebs. This year, we drove the car up to the same height above the same B&B, and walked the remaining 300m to the top of the ridge, La Crête du Sciozier, 1650m. You sleep well after 42 hours bed-to-bed, including a 5-hour / 380km drive through the Alps and a 300m walk, followed by dinner and a glass or two.
We've included a couple of shots taken the following morning from 50m above the B&B – because Le Mont Blanc was visible in the morning, whereas it wasn't the previous afternoon. (This was followed by 6 days touring in the Avignon triangle plus 2 days of driving, hence the break before the next walk).
N to the valley, halfway up |
The slopes opposite |
From the Crête ... |
... N up the valley |
La Crête from below in the morning light |
The valley from the Chambres |
Le Mont Blanc |
The valley |
The gorge is just SW of Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, 150km East of Avignon. It's easily the best gorge we've found in Europe, far more striking than the Tarn Gorge.
There are choices, but we prioritised the Martel walk, established at the beginning of the 20th century. It includes not only improved path, but also a couple of tunnels and a long stairway. We did it south to north (Maline to Point Sublime), to keep the strong midday and afternoon sun at our backs. The climb back out was tiring thanks to it being our first walk for the season, and the sun having taken its toll.
This is a great walk; but not one to do in July-August. It requires logistical planning, as it's a one-way walk. (There's one bus in the morning and one in the evening, for EUR 6 p.p. – and we caught the 16:30 back okay. Or order a cab for EUR 33, or car-pool). The final set of 4 photos was taken the following day, from the road above and to the SE.
From near the start, at Maline |
Part-way down the 250m drop |
At the gorge floor |
Cliffs and path, looking north |
Cliffs and path, looking back south |
Campanula, on the wall of a viewpoint ... |
... and the making of the photo |
The canyon walls |
Bréche Imbert's 120m stairway |
The canyon walls |
The wall at walk's end |
The ogre above the tunnel (but called Le Duc) |
Looking back south |
Water adventures |
After the 180m climb out to Point Sublime |
The calm above |
Looking E towards the Maline end of the Martel |
The tight bend, as the gorge switches from N-to-S to W-to-E |
The Martel stairs are on the northern (right-hand-side) slope |
A closer view of the section with the Martel stairs |
This track starts on the opposite side of the gorge to the Martel Track (i.e. the southern side), and you walk downstream rather than upstream. The day was very hot, and despite the presence of tree-cover for most of the walk, we wilted. It's a good walk, but very much a secondary choice to Martel. (Our next choice would be the cliff-top walk on the northern side). The first two sets of 4 photos are from the Imbut walk itself. As a bonus, we've included shots from the drive along the southern side, above the Imbut part of the Gorge (second last set of 4), and at the mouth of the Gorge, below the Imbut section (last 4).
At the top (Cavalier), looking across at the beginning of the Martel walk |
The steps down ... |
... which required care |
The walls above |
The only bridge, to the Maline side |
At the floor, looking upstream |
The limestone waters |
The water-carved lower walls |
Looking W towards the Imbut reach |
1km N and W of the previous photo. Note vehicles on the road (centre-right) |
From a bit further W |
Vulture, from above |
Looking NE, towards Maline |
Looking at the northern road to Maline and Sublime Pt |
Looking E towards the gorge mouth |
The gorge mouth |
Les Means is in the Val d'Ubaye (130km north of Nice, mountains and deep valleys all the way). The river cuts deeply and steeply into high limestone mountain ranges. We'd originally intended our first walk to be a section of the 9-day, high-altitude valley loop-walk (GR56), high in the bowl on the south-facing slopes. But the scorching sunshine and 30+ valley temperatures put us off that idea.
We instead picked out a section of the GR56 on the southern side (and hence a bit less sun-exposed), beginning high up opposite our Chambres d'Hotes at Les Means / Meolans, and walking southwards up the range. The target was a maraise, i.e. an alpine morass / shallow lake, at 2250m (a bit higher than Kosciusko). The tree-line is about 2100m here, rather than the 1800m level we're used to in the Swiss Alps. The start-point was difficult to find (in a steep-sided mountain valley?!), and the early part was a long section of four-wheel-drive track through larches – although with some good flowers around. But after that came a forested wall with waterfalls. In the cirque above, glaciated rocks surround the lake. Apart from the final section back to the car, it was a very good walk.
Aside: I've finally worked out that the official French maps are made in Paris by the federal bureaucracy, and their location-names and features don't correspond in the slightest with regional and local names. Added to that, the federal map-makers seem to be incompetent at interpreting aerial photography and putting sensible symbols on maps. In short, the signs and place-names at ground level, and the symbols and place-names on maps, are at odds with one another. (Australian, British, Swiss and Austrian 1:25,000 maps are all far more reliable guides than those in France, or of course Italy). Fortunately, the higher you go, the more usable the signs become. Presumably the alpine clubs know that too many people will die unless they invest their available resources in the uppermost, dangerous levels.
Map of the walk, south of Meolans |
At the start, looking up the track |
After the (too-)long flat, a waterfall |
Back down the stream towards the start-point |
Alpine Grassland |
Water-exposed and water-worn rocks |
Still water |
The stream, on an upper shelf |
Les Eaux Tortes, a maraise / shallow lake at 2250m |
The stream, cirque, and 2900m Grande Seolan |
Maraise with gentians |
The stream again, down in the valley |
The season was well-advanced considering the date, and we'd discovered that the forests go up to 2200m, and the 'alpine meadow' level that we look for hardly even exists here. So we picked out a high walk that promised flowers. This one starts halfway between Bayasse and Col de la Cayolle, about 40km south of Barcelonette. We walked westwards up a side-valley, from 2063m to a small pass with a big name at 2500m. We intended to continue westwards up to the Petit Col de Talon at 2678m. But the inadequate markings on tracks and junctions meant that we missed a turn back on ourselves and ended up swinging south instead, beneath great walls, finally ending up on snow-covered scree.
But the point of this walk was flowers, rather than fitness or views (which we got as a bonus). And boy did we hit the jackpot. We counted 85 different species, of which Linda could nominate the genus of almost all and the species-name of many (and even Roger could name a good third of the genera). The first 50 minutes was excruciatingly slow (c.1km), because we stopped a great many times, identifying 50 species, and photographing many of them. About a dozen will be new additions to our alpine flowers gallery (even though we've already reached almost 500 species).
The Lower Valley |
With much flower-looking |
The upper valley ... |
|
... with orchid, low right |
Upper valley |
Into rocks and snow |
At the upper extent, looking down |
For our final walk in the Alpes Maritimes, we again sought to avoid the many high, dry and rocky options. But we needed height, because it was clear that, in this early and hot summer, the flowers were at 2000-2500m. We also looked for areas that weren't south-facing and hence sun-drenched and scorching by 2pm.
We settled on an obscure valley close to the Italian border, starting from the remote and tiny village of Fouillouse at 1900m, and walking up to the Col de Vallonnet. The drive up to the village features a stone bridge from the 1890s that's suspended 108m above the torrent of the upper Ubaye.
The flowers were pretty good, but this time it was primarily 'a good walk', with a decent track, half a dozen 3000m peaks with varying rock-forms, and a nice little tarn at the pass. It included the closest thing to an alp we've seen in this area – a hanging valley with mainly alpine grassland, in this case at about 2200m. Oh, and remarkably, Linda found her first-ever Edelweiss.
The high village of Fouillouse |
Rising up the valley |
Near a rushing stream, beneath 3000m walls |
With alternate views of flowers and rocks |
A bunch of pasques and deep-hued stone |
Rising up the face at the end of the valley |
At the top of the Col looking SE into Italy |
Lunch beside the tarn |
Back via a loop-path ... |
... beneath colourful rock |
The narrowness of the peak |
Linda's first Edelweiss beside the track |
The view SW from the Le Chatelet Bridge |
The bridge from the road to the NE ... |
... and closer up |
The bridge and torrent from the SW |
This walk on the northern side of Val Gardena wasn't ideal for Roger's knees, because we took the Col Raider gondola (between Wolkenstein and St Christina) up to 2100m, and then walked up, around a bowl and down, rather than walking up and lifting down.
The views up at the Odle range above us, and south to the Sassa Luongo massif were striking, and we found a characterful rock-fall area for lunch. The flowers were again good, with half-a-dozen new species, incl. Roger's first Edelweiss. They're out early, and in some places in profusion, due to the early summer.
Sasso Luongo to the S, seen from the top of the gondola |
The Odle Range to the N and directly above us |
Upwards and eastwards |
The area offers calendar shots |
Sasso Luongo, from the lunch-spot |
One shot and ... |
... the reverse shot |
Looking back W at the lunchtime rock-fall |
This pass to the E was an option that we didn't take |
The fields just above the tree-line |
E to crags and return leg of our first Dolomites walk in 1999 |
Wolkenstein and the Sella |
We picked this one out as a reachable peak above beautiful valleys and amidst striking massifs. And we got it right. It was a toughish, persistent 1 in 5, from forest, through pasture, to rocks, with a path that was pretty stony, in part because the rain uses it as well as the walkers. The views in all directions were striking. The ridge to the SE, which ends in the slightly higher Col du Lana, is about 25m lower than it was until 1917. The Italian undermining was less successful than that of the Austrians, who used 45,000kg of explosive to blow the central section of the ridge off the mountain, and the Italians as well.
We parked the car on the outskirts of the village of Cointrin and walked directly up through the wood. Given that Linda was coming off the back of a 24-hour tummy upset, and Roger was still recovering from the 6 week lay-off in April-May, we were very happy to do it within the times indicated on the track-markers – 2h10m up and 1h25m down, for 350m phr up and 500m phr down. (That's omitting 25m m/tea and 45m for lunch and a search of the peak, of course). At 1 in 5, you only need to walk at 2kph to achieve 350m vertical per hour.
A reference-point, 40m above the car |
First views, Pordoi right, Capello left (Penia on the other side) |
The forest begins to open out |
Horses with Sella |
Marmolade, SW, its glaciers rapidly disappearing |
The stony path, leaving the forest |
Looking SW, Ornella left, Arabba, Pordoi right |
At the loop path, at 2200m, looking WNW to Sella |
Looking NNE, to Setsas |
Walkers NNE, with the Monte Castello wall behind |
Linda nearing the peak, Sella/Pordoi/Marmolada as backdrop |
NE from the summit |
The massive breach in the ridge ... |
... after 1917 mining by Italians and ... |
... then decisively by Austrians (45000kg) ... |
... winning that ridgeline |
SE along the ridge, with Moss Campion |
Ditto, towards Cortina, with Falzarego, Nuvolau |
On the way back, to the buildings low-left |
The evening storm building in the E |
After a very rainy night and morning, we took a brief afternoon stroll through a steep, touristy gorge, to the north-east of the Fedaia Pass.
Gorge walls |
Falls used for ice-climbing in winter |
Dressed up for tourists ... |
... but no photo of the bus-train, sorry |
We did 3 walks, for which the maps are here. We'd recommend doing 1. first. (It's only an average walk, but an excellent orientation to the area). Then the brilliant (but demanding) 2. and 3., in either order. 3. needs a good day, because the balcony has a 180-degree panorama at 5-10km range. With 2. the views aren't quite as important, but given that you're walking at 3200m on a rock-wall, avoid nasty weather. We didn't see any other walks we were particularly interested in, and 5 nights / 4 days (3 walking, 1 rest-day) was perfect:
1. Five Lakes Walk |
2A. Hörnlihütte Pt 1 Zermatt to Zmutt |
2B. Hörnlihütte Pt 2 Schwarzsee upwards |
3. Höhbalmen |
From late in Walk 2A: 1. is on the slope opposite, and down through the wood |
From early in Walk 1: 2A is in the valley at centre, 2B is high-left; and the 2nd half of 3 is high right |
The first part of 3. |
The five lakes are mostly reservoirs. However, the east-west valley has views of not just the Matterhorn but also multiple other mountains and glaciers. We took the (underground) rack-railway up to Sunnega at 2280m, and walked around, up, across the valley, and back down to Zermatt. The weather started as cloudy, and shifted to rain about 1pm; so we got to exercise our wet-weather procedures.
SW to the Matterhorn, 3300 of 4400m visible |
The Leisee and playground below |
Downvalley and across to glacier fields |
3500-4200m mts and glaciers to the W |
View down to Grindjisee |
Stellisee at 2540m |
At Grindjisee, the one 'pretty' place in the huge, grand scene |
E along Grindjisee |
NW, Sunnega high right, weather closing |
Matterhorn just before showers |
The lunch-spot |
The track home, rain arriving |
Hörnlihütte is the gateway to the 1200m climb up the Matterhorn. It's at an altitude of 3260m, which is several hundred meters higher than we've walked before, and at the level at which oxygen is just starting to thin. (Roger once tested himself out at 3300m at the Jungfraujoch, nearly tipping a 6-mth-old Kasia out of the backpack when nearly passing out after taking a score of shallow steps the – then – usual two-at-a-time).
We weren't up to a 1700m climb from the village, so we walked up 350m via the village of Zmutt at 1936m and down to Furi at 1870m (a nice walk, which also skips the expensive first leg of the gondola), then caught the second leg of the gondola up to Schwarzeee at 2580m, and walked the remaining 700m of height, some of the track moderate, and some very steep (the last third being up a 1-in-2 rock-wall).
It's one of those places you just have to go, not least so that you can gaze at the knife-edge ridge-line above the hütte, and disabuse yourself of the idea that, one day, you might just acclimatise yourself for a week, hire the (semi-obligatory?) mountain-guide (AUD1500), stay in the hütte dormitory at least 1 night, and have a crack at the last 1200m of a mountain that's been climbed by many hundreds of mere mortals (and attempted by many thousands more) and whose 2-in-1 for 900m followed by 3-in-1 for the last 300m has only killed about 500 people so far.
Leaving Zermatt |
Looking back NE to Walk 1 |
Zmutt |
Back to Zmutt across the ravine |
From the gondola, Gornergletsch, to its left Monte Rosa |
The forbidding nature of a large glacier |
Back to the gondola (and yesterday's walk) |
The approach to the first obstacle. Where's the track? |
First obstacle, and first view of the Hütte (just below clouds) |
Second obstacle, a 1-in-2 rock-wall ... |
... with the Matterhorn ridge above |
Looking back to first obstacle ... |
... and the path |
Finally, the Hütte ... |
... newly extended, and the ridge above |
... and the adjacent glacier |
The Matterhorn ascent (first 900m only; the rest is steeper) |
Returning, weather variable ... |
... and the path too |
The mid-section, path part-visible, partly not |
One tricky section, the glacier-fields beneath |
A high-level view of glacier-fields above our first walk |
Looking back up the mid-section |
Back in Zermatt, weather clearing, Matterhorn looming |
This is a highly-recommended walk up to a balcony at over 2600m, which provides views of 3500-4500m peaks in all directions, notably the Matterhorn, Breithorn and most of the Monte Rosa (although Switzerland's highest peak, at 4634m, is obscured). The glaciers are too numerous to count.
The path leads west from Zermatt up a steep gully to Alterhaupt (+350m, 1-in-4, 1 hr). From there, we took what turned out to be the second-best option, SW then W, much of it uncompromisingly up a steep gully (+700m, 1-in-4, just under 2 hrs). We went a bit further W to get varied views, then returned on the other two sides of the triangle via Trift.
From above Zermatt, up to Edelweiss at Alterhaupt |
Looking north |
Looking back down |
An early view of Matterhorn, still 6km away |
LtoR, Liskamm 4479m, Breithorn 4164m, Kl. Matterhorn 3883m |
To the N, Taeschhorn 4491m |
The steep track up the gully |
Monte Rosa 4500m, (Gornergrat 3090m), Castor, Pollux 4100m |
Breithorn, Little Matterhorn |
Strahlhorn 4190m, Adlerhorn 3988m, Findelgletscher to the E |
Matterhorn 4476m, now 4km away, from Höhbalmen 2665m |
With yesterday's ridge and hütte L |
Zinalrothorn 4221m, to the NW, with violas |
Returning on the higher path, looking N |
Down to Trifthütte at 2337m |
Up the Trift to Zinalrothorn |
"One day, all this will be yours" |
Afternoon storm missing us |
One more looking up the Trift ... |
... and another |
This is a page within the Clarke-Spinaze Photo Gallery, home-page here
Contact: Linda or Roger
Created: 9 Jan 2017; Last Amended: 1 Jul 2017